diy cnc router

Build your own 3-
The axis CNC router is both interesting and educational.
This Instructure shows all the steps I followed to make a DIY CNC router.
This is the second version that I learned a lot from building the first version and then making it.
This is a very good router that can be built at a reasonable price using ready-made materials.
DIY linear bearings, screw bars and plywood are used in this design (or MDF)construction.
No welding, no gorgeous material.
This is not a factory dedicated to the processing of steel.
Not super-fast.
This is a router designed to route wood, plastic and some aluminum. It is a low-
Cost, decent quality system, can teach you about 3-axis routing.
If you are small-minded in the cutting and assembly process, you can achieve very good accuracy.
I also do the PCB isolation wiring with my and I can do the surface-
Install ICs with a spacing of 50 mil.
Not bad at all!
Complete parts list, Sketchup drawings by the end of 2016 (
Just drawings, not sketchup files)
Size is only $2.
Monthly USD in HobbyCNC. com.
You will need to register on the website and use the coupon code instructions at checkout.
See it in action: vimeo.
Com/166901487 note: The planned Rev01 has been released.
This diy cnc router is made of wood.
I highly recommend high quality furnituregrade plywood.
It looks good and strong.
Another option is the medium fiber board (
Medium density cardboard).
It is not recommended to use granular boards or \"ordinary old plywood \".
Sizmy build is 36 inch long and 24 wide.
I don\'t believe I\'ll be as big as wood bending under load.
It is essential to pay attention to the details that all cuts are as perfect as possible.
I was in a hurry to ask for my first version, and the issue became apparent when I milled \"mirror opposite\" parts that were not aligned after milling! D’oh!
Keep it all togetherBarrel (or Cross Dowel)
NutsBarrel nuts provide a super
Removable sturdy joint-and-
Reassemble multiple times without damaging the part.
These holes can be time consuming unless you make the fixture first.
A strong base is a necessary condition for obtaining high quality results.
I recommend the design of the twist box for this purpose.
The torque box will provide a solid, stable, lightweight foundation for your project.
Take the time and make sure everything is square.
If not, you will route the parallelogram instead of the square!
I designed the linear bearing guide rail and placed it under the replaceable bed to minimize dust and shavings getting stuck
On the mechanism.
This makes the assembly more complex, but the result is worth the effort.
It is essential for linear bearing rail brackets to assemble these brackets very carefully so that everything remains Square and true.
I stick everything together with pins and glue.
All joints are bondedup.
You can use density in the torque box-it will be very strong when it is fully bonded, just keep it dry and it will stay true. (
Water is dead for medium fiber boards). Two end-
Add the panel to keep the twist box outside the working surface and for X-
Sliding and space of shaft drive screws.
The stepping motors of all axes are the same and will be covered once later.
Sacrificing the top plate I added the second layer to the top of the twist box, a replaceable 24x36 \"mid-fiber board with a\" T \"slot inside.
It can be replaced easily if it is damaged.
I walked an extra mile with my tongue-and-
The grooves on all joints are close to doubledamn-
Everything went well (the “belt-and-
Method of sling).
After cutting all the parts, care must be taken to drill the holes of the barrel nut.
I carefully made a drilling fixture with a bolt-sized brass bushing (1/4 \"in my case)
And barrel cap nuts (3/8”)
This will allow me to drill fully aligned holes without the need to measure (
Very time saving).
In addition to drawing the center line, I also added the ruler mark on the lower side to speed up the alignment process (
For example, drill into 1 1/2 \"from the edge \")
To use the fixture, carefully arrange the parts to be drilled and mark the location of the hole.
Fix the fixture on the part and drill two target parts at a time without removing the fixture.
There are two drill motors (
A bit with \"bit\" and a bit with 3/8 bit is very convenient).
This is a big area where our simple plywood CNC router design is different from the \"real\" factory --
The method used here is a very cheap implementation that still yields acceptable results for hobby CNC routers.
The system uses very simple and cheap linear bearings using 1 \"aluminum corners and skateboard bearings.
It is quite rigid and durable if done right.
I think you can replace aluminum with steel corners.
I don\'t know. I didn\'t try.
The mounting hole must be drilled carefully, and the distance between e x a c t l y and the angle is the same.
This will determine the operation of all four bearings relative to the opposite angle and assign the force.
Pass the bolt through the bearing and follow the bolt with the nut.
Tighten to fix the bearing.
The Bolt/bearing/nut assembly is then placed in the threaded hole of the angle bracket.
If your 3/8 Bolt is too long, you can offset the holes of the bearing as long as you respect the same distance as the angle vertex.
There are two 8 \"in length and four 4\" in length \".
The structure is the same except for the length. Drill-and-tap 3/8”.
Assembly as shown in the figure. The X-
Shaft sliding along base, front-to-back.
As with all components, attention in cutting and layout is important to ensure high quality output from the router.
Align X carefully-
Nut and anti-shaft linear bearing
Backlash parts perpendicular to the center line of X-Axis bottom.
Now connect the shaft together around the base Bolt.
Test if the bearing is suitable for comfortable but free movement.
Gasket or decoration is required for perfect fit.
Slide the Axis forward and backward to ensure smooth movement without binding force.
At each end of the movement, the marking will be the base for drilling the drive screw.
X-screw or glue
Shaft linear bearing mounted on XAxis sides.
Connecting linear bearings optionally (
I put a small flat screw.
Put it in the right placenot shown). Thread the X-
Shaft drive screws (not shown)
Add a small square nut through one side of the base (
Part of the recoil component)
, Then insert the spring, and then insert the thread into the linear bearing nut to ensure that the spring is well compressed.
Carefully fixing the drill to one end of the screw bar will speed up the process.
Add bearings at both ends of X-
Shaft drive screws and double
The nut ensures that there is some tension on the screw to prevent it from \"falling\" at a higher speed \".
In the drawing, Y-
Shaft drive screws and recoil assemblies are shown but have not been installed yet.
Step motor brackets will also be added later.
Assembly of Y-
Axis same as X-axisAxis. The Y-
Slide along the X axisAxis, left-to-right.
As with all components, attention in cutting and layout is important to ensure high quality output from the router.
Align Y carefully-
Nut and anti-shaft linear bearing
Backlash parts perpendicular to the center line of Y-Axis back.
Now connect the shaft together around the base Bolt.
Test if the bearing is suitable for comfortable but free movement.
Gasket or decoration is required for perfect fit.
Swipe the axis left and right to ensure smooth movement without binding.
Screw or glue Y-
Shaft linear bearing installed in Y-
Top and bottom of shaft.
Connecting linear bearings optionally (
I put a small flat screw.
Put it in the right placenot shown).
At each end of the move, Mark X-
You will drill the shaft side for the drive screw. Thread theY-
Shaft drive screws (not shown)
Through the side of X
Shaft, add small square nut (
Part of the recoil component)
, Then insert the spring, and then insert the thread into the linear bearing nut to ensure that the spring is well compressed.
Carefully fixing the drill to one end of the screw bar will speed up the process.
Add bearings at both ends of Y-
Shaft drive screws and double
The nut ensures that there is some tension on the screw to prevent it from \"falling\" at a higher speed \".
Step motor brackets will also be added later. The Z-
Axis provides upand-
The downward part of the movement.
As with all components, attention in cutting and layout is important to ensure high quality output from the router.
It\'s assembled.
Slide around on Y-Axis. The Z-
The axis will hold your router, Dremel or pen or whatever you want to move.
Align Z-carefully-
Nut and anti-shaft linear bearing
Backlash parts perpendicular to the center line of Z-Axis back.
Now connect the shaft together around the base Bolt.
Test if the bearing is suitable for comfortable but free movement.
Gasket or decoration is required for perfect fit.
Swipe the axis up and down to ensure smooth movement without binding.
At each end of the move, Mark Y-
The top and bottom of the shaft that will be drilled for the drive screw.
Screw or glue Z-
Shaft linear bearing installed in Z-Axis sides.
Connecting linear bearings optionally (
I put a small flat screw.
Put it in the right placenot shown). Thread the Z-
Shaft drive screws (not shown)
Through the top of Y-
Shaft, add small square nut (
Part of the recoil component)
, Then insert the spring, and then insert the thread into the linear bearing nut to ensure that the spring is well compressed.
Carefully fixing the drill to one end of the screw bar will speed up the process.
Add bearings at both ends of Z-
Shaft drive screws and double
The nut ensures that there is some tension on the screw.
Step motor brackets will also be added later.
Three of these components are required.
Step motor needs to be installed directlyand-
The drive screw is correct.
To minimize the possibility of misplacement, I used the spyder component.
There are several different variants of the flexible coupler.
You can even have a non
Flexible coupler.
There is too much \"sewage\" in the spider I used and I have to burp.
The motor is mounted to the relevant panel through the \"T nut.
The size and design needs to be adjusted according to your specific motor and coupling mechanism.
I recommend using connectors on motor wiring (red circle).
It just makes assembly and disassembly (
And trouble shooting)so much easier.
Make all the screw holes in the interval block as closely as possible connected to the screw.
This component needs to be continuously retired. and-
Therefore, keeping all tight and tight tolerances will help prevent all looseness.
You will need four main components: ideal computer advice with parallel ports: buy a small table-
Side computers from friends, yard sales or e-recyclers and throw a parallel port card in it.
The motherboard may even have the connector installed and all you need is a back panel with a ribbon cable.
Don\'t bring your laptop into the store.
It is dirty and usually unsafe for exquisite electronics. With a cheap-
O shopside machine, you can open it at any time and blow it clean.
CAM software doesn\'t have much requirement for your PC as the machine can only move so fast, which is not a challenge for any reasonably current computer.
I recommend the \"keep it simple\" stepping motor driver.
I use and recommend the HobbyCNC board.
A plate with a maximum of 4 axes. No break-
Circuit boards and simplified wiring as well as smaller footprint.
No matter what you do, avoid eBay from abroad.
Made the driver board
You want to be a cad cam Expert instead of a \"fix cheap import\" expert.
You need a parallel cable with all pins straight through.
There is a solution if USB or Ethernet must be used (
But prices have risen a lot).
The stepping motor 23 motor is large enough.
Make sure your drive board type is correct.
There are two main families: single-pole and double-pole.
The HobbyCNC board is single-polar-
This means that you need a 5, 6, or 8-wire stepping motor (
4 lines only double pole type).
I don\'t know how to \"measure\" the motor.
I use a fairly strong motor.
Trade-off: more torque and more power (
Large power supply)slower speeds. Power supply (
Driving step motor)
A solid, unregulated linear supply is good for HobbyCNC solutions.
The DC voltage is about 32 volts, figure 2.
5 amps per step motor.
You can also use the regulated \"switch\" power supply, no problem.
I see a lot of cheap on eBay. Caveat Emptor.
I built my own. Optional (But recommended)
SwitchI bought this at my local woodworking store (Rockler).
They get bad quickly when things get bad and I want a big goal.
This will kill my motor and spindle. Optional -
UPSI ruined some work because of kicking the plug or turning on the compressor.
UPS will stop all these things.
Work is no longer interrupted.
This UPS is only powered by PC.
The power supply of the motor has enough storage space to handle the transient.
Ti built a rolling cabinet for my CNC router, so I have a place to place all the tools, wrenches, spindles, inventory, keyboard drawers and a large drawer.
The yellow box is a HobbyCNC stepping motor drive board.
The red box is a linear power supply that drives the stepping motor.
The blue box is a photoelectric isolation board for my limit switch and home switch.
The green box is my distribution.
The purple box is my little PC.
Two fans cool the drawer.
While optional, all the wires and cables are out of the way.
If your wire is stuck in the moving part, it\'s very bad (
For a bunch of reasons).
There are a lot of ways to stop them, but I want something cool --
Watching as I can make money from my existing inventory.
Simple design, cheap price and complete functions. X-
Axis management you can use these sizes \"future Z \".
For a tighter turn to make the angle sharp, the tray is wider or narrower no matter what suits your design.
I first tore the plywood of two lengths to a width of 1/2.
I tore two 3/16 \"cardboard that was the same length (
\"Can also work)
The width is 1/4. I glued-and-
Clamp the hard plate strip on the 1/2 \"plywood to form a U shapeThe shape of the \"slot.
In the picture, you can already see how the tray will be folded.
Cut another 1 \"bar to the exact same segment as each pallet segment (
2 5/8 \"in my case).
These small pieces are screwed to the \"bottom\" of the tray-this will prevent unnecessary \"wrong\" direction bending when the tray is upside down.
The idea ends up with a \"sandwich\" made up of parts, as shown below.
This is just a fragment, such as the orange \"duck cloth \"(
Bright orange, material like canvas)
Need to be a continuous strip of cable tray length.
Cut a 1 1/2 \"wide duck cloth a little longer than the total length of the cable tray. I lined-
Fix all cable tray segments between the two boards so that they do not move in the bonding step.
I applied the underside of the tray and the side of the duck cloth with contact cement.
After drying according to the instructions, gently stretch the duck cloth and stick it to the tray.
Two people work best here.
Carefully line up and secure the bottom with 6x3/4 \"wood screws (
No contact with cement).
A little bent coat-
Complete assembly of hangers. Y-
Axis management of Y axis
I just made a simple joint arm.
It must be slightly bent, Y-
The axis is in its farthest place.
This is where the next stage of your study begins.
There are many other places to choose from.
The following is a summary!
You need a few software.
I won\'t make any suggestions here because there are so many options, from free to high cost, and everything in.
Usually you need these three software: Google is your friend.