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cnc plasma table

by:Luteng CNC Parts     2020-09-17
Please note: I do not provide these kits.
Then, hand over the RAR file BOM to your favorite laser cutting company for a quote. cut / fold.
All parts are cut from a mild steel plate of 3mm/1/8.
All SOLIDWORKS files are on GRABCAD-
Please have a look before email me to ask for the file.
So, you bought a plasma cutter and you want you to cut your design accurately on the metal.
Manual tracking of the lines can lead to disappointing results, and the CNC plasma table is out of your budget.
Sound familiar?
I think so anyway!
If you haven\'t bought a plasma cutter yet
There are a few things to remember!
This plasma table is designed to work with any plasma torch you have
Hold or blow the CNC torch fully.
The mounting plate is designed to fit as much as possible.
You can connect the torch with a zipper
The tie or U Bolt depends on how often you need to remove it.
This instructable really started on the Land Rover Forum LR4x4.
One of Com members (RobertSpark)
He is building his own plasma table, but it is a bit complicated and needs to be welded together.
I think \"I want a plasma table\" and I want to build a plasma table too!
I decided to use a laser cut part on Solidworks to design a table from scratch and anyone can connect it together without welding.
It is also scalable so that you can use the same laser cut parts to build tables of almost any size you like.
You need to get the length of the steel box section from the steel shareholders and all the other things you can buy on eBay/AliExpress.
All parts need to be cut into A366/3mm steel of grade 1/8 or 1008 (
Or grade 304 stainless steel).
If you just choose the closest size, these parts are for both metric and imperial box sections/nuts and bolts.
William Piotrowski sent me a linkvery cool! )time-
His building is dead.
It details the build process to date.
I think it might be helpful for others!
Components: Optional: Note 1: the splitter separates the PC from the stepping motor driver to protect the PC from voltage spikes, etc.
Most of them are plugged into PC parallel ports.
These are the simplest settings. www. CNC4You.
Com offers some decen t boards and includes simple wiring diagrams to make it easy!
Take a look at the KK01 board as an example.
If you have confidence in techy stuf, eBay can provide a reasonable board with lower cost but better instructions.
If you don\'t have a parallel port, there are several USB motion controllers, including the UC100 above.
UC100 still needs a breakout board (
It just makes USB parallel.
There are also some USB motion controllers from China on EBay.
The one I bought was working fine, but I spent a lot of experiments setting up and working due to horrible and misleading indicator ions. Never again!
USB boards are often sensitive to electrical noise.
To make it stable, I had to use the clip on ferrite choke on all the power and USB cables.
Most boards have one or two relays.
Use one of them to open the ar c on the plasma cutter.
You have to figure this out yourself.
I just cut the lead of swit ch on the torch into a plasma, plug in a c connector block and connect the wire to the relay.
Note 2: determine X, Y, and Z dimensions in mm.
Make these larger sizes than the paper you want to cut.
You can calculate the length of the steel to be cut below: quantity description length 2 X axis bars X 200mm 2 Y axis bars Y mm 1 Z axis Bar Z 100mm1 Bridge Bar Y 182mm 2 bed support Angle Y mm 6 (or more)
Bed Lane angle X 245mm 2 X axis M6 Studding x 220mm 2 Y axis M6 Studding Y 20mm 1 Bridge M6 Studding Y 202mm 3 Z Carriage M6 Studding 100mm 2 X axis belt 2 x X 450mm1 Y axis belt 2 X Y 400mm 1 X axis 8mm drive shaft Y 300mm 1 Z axis study M10 Z 100mm 1 M10 ordinary Nut2 Misc 8mm half axis 100Length50x50x1.
5 Box Section 2x3 x y z 682mm M6 study 2x3 x Y 982mm synchronous timing belt 4X2 x Y 1300mm bed 20x20X3mm angle (
Number of runners)x (X + 245)
2 x Y 8mm round section bright strip Y 500 note 3.
I used the egos MCM-06-
03 clamp bearings that look expensive on the surface.
However, they work well and have a long life span in dusty and frayed environments!
As an alternative, the egos website carries a 3D model (including STL)
All their parts
So you can print it in 3D yourself!
Egos even sold their special polymer in the form of a 3D printer filament --
So you can print out the real parts.
Other suppliers also sell plastic or nylon clamp bearings
However, I think the value of egos is still very high.
Laser cutting parts: I have attached a rar (
Compressed file)
Contains all DXF and PDF drawings for laser cut parts.
You should be able to send these to any laser cutting company that can cut and fold according to PDF drawings.
List of materials for laser cutting parts: quantity part name 1 X motor Holder 3 pulley holder 1 side plate 6 belt Clamp1 Y motor holder 1 side plate Mirror1 Y pulley Holder 2 end plate Z motor holder 1 Z top Cap2 Z Follower1 Z nut Keeper1 torch lift the RAR file below the Slide1 Z axis platform is the compression/compression of all drawings required for cutting/folding parts
You need a tool like 7Zip to decompress/view the file.
Add BOM to the file (
Number of parts cut per laser)
The above is your favorite laser cutting company.
They will be able to quote and make parts.
Please note again that I don\'t sell kits
I just did this for fun and wanted to share it with you.
For each of the three lower rollers, pass a bolt through the laser cutting section, fix it in place with a nut, and then fix a V roller pulley to each with a second nut.
The first nut is important as a gasket.
Bolt the smaller motor onto the board using 4 M4 nuts and bolts.
The study of length M 12 is connected to the motor using a flexible coupling.
The two Z follower boards are the same and are installed face-to-face as shown.
There is a small plate that cuts out the hexagon.
The board is fixed in the appropriate position and sandwiched between the Z-follower board.
Fix the parts in construction 1 and 2 together.
M6 study 20mm longer than your Z Post.
This end runs through the Z-compartment, along the middle of the Z-pillar, through the s quare Z-cap board.
Connect two Z-driven boards short (100mm)
M6 studies the length of the nut as described above.
Connect 4 more V roller pulleys to the fold edge of the Z-following plate.
Relax the learning length of 100mm, allowing you to clip the torch lift skateboard between the V rollers.
Tighten the learning so that the board can move freely up and down, but not rattle. Bolt the micro-
Switch to the torch lift plate using 2 x M3 x 40 screws.
You may need to add a few nuts/washers between the micro
Switch and board, when installed, the button on the switch contacts Z-
Follower component.
Now you can loosely attach the torch adapter board to the torch lift skateboard.
You need to adjust this height later.
Adjust the position of the pulley group, and the pulley group moves along the right edge of the Z column in the slot to allow the Z axis to move freely up and down the Z column, but the number of rotations is as small as possible.
Once the kit is fully assembled, you can re-
Adjust these to maximize the rigidity of the Assembly.
The Z axis is complete.
Find the part in the picture above.
There are two similar parts (
Just to confuse you).
Use the right flange to cut holes with 5 holes as shown in the figure.
There are only 4 holes in the other.
We need this later!
Through your two X-
The length of the shaft that passes through the intermediate hole and is fixed with a normal nut.
Also via two M6 x 25 bolts (
Not fixed with nuts yet)
Bolt a larger motor onto the board above and bolt it onto a corner bracket as shown in the figure.
There are 2 pairs of angle brackets, and two pairs are mirrors of the other two pairs.
One bolt in four diamond plates (as shown)
To the corner bracket.
Note the alignment of the L-cut-
At the bottom right of the picture.
Through the x-axis study through one of the x-axis tubes, through another corner bracket, through the U-shaped bracket as described above.
At this stage, the U-shaped bracket also needs to be fixed on the corner bracket.
Place the component on a flat surface (Table top? )
And tighten the nut until the angle bracket is firmly secured in place.
Bolt another diamond plate to the end of the corner bracket (
Note the alignment of the L-cut-out. )
As shown in the figure, insert two egos plastic bushing in 9mm holes of the U-shaped bracket and assemble another x-axis rod.
At one end of the motor, it has another U-shaped bracket.
This includes a mirror image of the first x-axis bar that the diamond plate should form, as shown in the figure.
Take a short length (100mm)
Go through the plastic bushing in the U-shaped bracket in the 8mm bar and connect the pulley and shaft ring.
Pass the longer length of the 8mm bar through the egos bushing and connect the pulley, then insert the y-axis M6 as shown.
Pass the studding and 8mm bar through the y-axis tube.
Insert the end of the y-axis angle into the L-cut-
On a diamond plate.
This is a little fidgety-
You may need help from an assistant!
Assemble only one end at a time.
It is difficult to try to arrange both at the same time.
As long as you don\'t pull the learning too tightly, there is enough flexibility at the other end to engage the learning, box section and angle.
Place this component on a flat surface and stretch the study to be firmly fixed.
If you are building a large table, you may need to use M8 studies to stretch the structure as it requires more force to fix it.
Assemble the Y motor bracket, Y-axis study and bolts as shown in the figure, and then connect the second large motor and bolts in place.
Tie this to the Y carriage stand.
Connect three V-slot pulleys away from the Y bracket with one nut.
Tighten the top two but leave the bottom (slotted)pulley loose.
As before, pass the study through the Y Bridge tube.
Assemble Other Y carriage brackets (
Mirror image of each other)
Pulley, 100mm shaft and shaft ring using the egos bushing sleeve.
Transfer the study by placing two Y carriages on the x-axis tube.
Depending on the cutting accuracy of the tube, you may need to use one or two washers behind the V pulley on the Y carriage, so that when students are tightened, they will sit exactly at the top of the x-axis tube.
Need a little try and error!
When you are happy that it is seated properly, fully stretch the st. udding and then adjust the bottom pulley set on the Y compartment to make the bridge smoothly roll along the length of the machine.
If one end is tightened, one in the y-axis tube is longer than the other!
I\'m afraid you have to remove the length and adjust it.
Place the z-axis assembly on the top of the bridge bar and then adjust the V roller to make it firm and roll smoothly.
This requires quite strict adjustment.
Take a certain length of the timing belt and fix one end on the clip on the Y carriage bracket.
Through the holes around the corner holder, pulley, etc. , through the bottom of the other clip bar.
Tighten the belt using a pair of pliars (
Some help may be needed! )
Tighten the other clip
You can add a bed/material bracket as shown in the figure.
Move the Y-slide to one end of the machine so that it is difficult for the Y-slide to lean against the corner stand and then pass the next timing belt across the other side.
You need to adjust the belt through each clip individually so that the bridge is square and the belt is tightened.
Repeat this process for the y axis.
Once all three belts are tightened, adjust the slotted pulley again to make sure everything is tight but moving smoothly.
Find some twist springs if you still find that you can\'t stretch the belt fully (
Like in the clothes. pegs).
Put one or two on each belt.
These will keep the tension in the belt when the machine is put into use.
They should be unnecessary in most cases.
Use the rest of the 8mm ground bar to form one end of the shape of \"Shepherd OK G.
I bend my lamp post!
You can connect the cable to the plasma torch on the hook so that the cable can reach the cutting head as the cutting head moves.
There is a lot of information on the line.
Instead of repeating here, there is a good set of pages that describe the same components I use here: an illustration of how to connect each individual component to the breakout board and to the PC parallel port.
There are 4 lines of stepping motor
So you need 4 (or more)
Connect them to the core cable of the step drive.
I used the 7 core trailer cable because it is low cost, easy to get and can carry enough current (5 Amps).
3 spare cores for connection Z-Axis micro-
Switch without adding a separate cable.
You need to break through the board to turn your plasma cutter on and off
It is equivalent to pressing the trigger on the torch.
Fortunately, the splitter board includes a relay (
Usually open and close the spindle on the lathe or rolling mill).
I removed the plug at the end of my plasma torch that connected the trigger to the machine and connected a pair of wires parallel to the one connected to the switch contact.
These are connected to NO (normally open)and COM (common)
The relay is connected and the plasma experience tries to start cutting when the relay is on.
Some plasma cutting machines make electrical noise on these wires.
Sometimes enough to crash the computer!
If you have a problem, buy some ferrite core and deduct one (or more)
Wire to plasma cutting machine.
Add some more to the power supply connection, and the 24 v power supply connection of the power supply and the parallel wire of the PC may also be helpful.
To protect and route the cable, I pass the cable through the \"cable chain.
Although I have linked chain stores on eBay, most of these chains are in low cost Chinese version
It turns out they are not very strong.
I wish I had used the egos chain.
What we use at work.
Better quality, very strong-
More expensive though.
The choice is yours!
You can see a picture of the breakout board on it.
That\'s how I connected it (
This may be slightly different from the HobbyCNCAustralia website linked above).
My line is dedicated to plasma cutting.
The wiring of the stepping driver is exactly the same.
However, Terminals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 are as follows.
L & R refers to the left and right hand screws as shown in the figure. 1.
5 v output L is 0 v, R is 5 v, you can use it to power things like laser crossover
You may have noticed the hair on some of my photos (
The cost on EBay is very low! )2.
No connection3.
L & R is connected to the normally open connection on the torch lift microswitch4.
Height control to Proma torch.
L to the \"future\" terminal, R to the \"torch up\" 5.
Height control to Proma torch.
L to the \"future\" terminal, R to \"torch down\" 6.
Height control to Proma torch.
L to the \"com\" terminal, R to \"arc OK\" 7.
Connect it to the plasma cutting machine trigger.
7 connect to the relay contact on the splitter board, you want it, so when the relay is powered on, the plasma experience the impact arc starts cutting.
First of all, you need to design what you want to cut.
From drawing parts on paper to a comprehensive computer-aided design, there are many options for this.
Starting with the image, scan the image and use software such as Inkscape, which can convert graphics and even photos into vector formats called DXF files.
This software can be downloaded for free and although I have only used it once or twice it works really well!
For example, if you want to cut the outline of the animal and use it for weathervane or other \"decorative\" stuff, it would be ideal.
This makes it easy for plasma cutting machines to be used for artistic purposes without the limitations of traditional CAD software.
You can use a drawing package like CorelDraw, which can be exported in DXF format-
This is a half way house between drawing and CAD.
Suitable for geometry that does not worry about precision-
For example, the sign of the house.
There are many CAD systems to choose from.
My personal favorite is Solidworks-
But it is too expensive for the hobby of reality.
Solidworks has a set of tools for sheet metal processing that allow you to build, test and analyze components of parts in order to build and run the entire project before cutting any metal.
This plasma stage is a good example!
At the other end of the spectrum is Google Sketchup-
This is free, and if you just want to work in a 2D environment, draft Draft DraftSight from the same company as Solidworks, it\'s totally free!
It\'s actually quite impressive.
No matter what software you use, you can save your design as DXF.
Next, you need to turn the design into something that the CNC machine can understand.
The best option for plasma cutting is SheetCAM.
There are many good tutorial videos and information on the Internet.
SheetCAM allows you to import and arrange multiple parts (Nest)
Therefore, they can be effectively installed in the smallest metal sheet possible.
Once you\'re happy, you \"post-process \"(
Convert the layout to GCode that your CNC will understand).
If you want to use Mach3 to control your table, select the processor after Mach3.
Mach3 is the interface between your design and the hardware, which will make it-
This is a step for yourself!
There is a lot of information on how to use mach3 online.
Here I include the profiles and screen sets I use.
If you connect them the same as mine, the profile will have it talk to THC, Plasma, and Motors.
At least it will be a good start! Save Plasma. set & Plasma.
C: \\ Mach3 \\ xml in folder.
When you start Mach3 the Start screen should now show \"plasma\" as one of the optionsselect this. One top tip!
If any configuration settings are changed (Config Menu)
, Click save at the bottom of the menu, otherwise, when you re-
Start Mach3 and it will revert to the old settings.
This makes me swear once or twice!
With my settings, you can move the X & Y axis of the plasma table using the PC cursor key.
A & Z mobile Z (torch height)up & down.
When you want to calibrate the torch height, on the home screen, click \"refer to all homes\" next to the X, Y & Z position reading \".
The torch will slowly move down until the torch lift microswitch is turned off and then it will move up until the switch is just turned off.
The Z reading itself is zero.
On my torch, this is equivalent to the torch being 3mm too low. In the Z DRO (readout)
, Click in the box and enter-
3 and hit return.
0 when you move Z up.
000 will be the torch just touching the metal plate.
You may and-3mm -
You need to do some experiments!
If you want to use torch height control, click the THC button (
Even if installed, you can turn it on and off as needed).
Try clicking the torch on the button to check if the plasma cutter has hit the arc.
Once you have your software installed, I recommend installing a marker pen on the cutter at the first Test.
Draw a simple shape and see how good it is.
You should be able to measure it to make sure its size is accurate.
If not, go back to the motor tuning in Mach3
You may have calculated the number of steps per mm/inch by mistake (
It happened to the best of us! ).
The manufacturer of the plasma cutting machine should be able to tell you the ideal torch height for piercing and cutting.
The description of my old plasma is 1.
Pierce 5mm, cut 1mm
But I found that it is better to have an aging effect at 2mm and 0. 5mm. Thus -
Worth a try!
3mm Pierce & 0 recommended by Hypertherm
Pierce delay cutting 8mm (
How long does it take to melt a hole through steel)of 0. 5 sec -
This is perfect for me!
Enter these settings in SheetCAM.
Also into the cutting speed-say 1500mm/min.
You can easily adjust it in Mach 3 to fine tune the cut.
Manufacturers can also give advice on the cutting speed at different power levels (Current).
I will only use it as a guide, though.
For metals of a given thickness, you may need to do a little experiment to find the ideal combination of speed and current.
I found that 1500 mm/min, 25A works well for 3mm carbon steel.
Your goal is to use the least \"dross \"(
Molten metal solidified)
Stuck in the back.
It took me a day to experiment to achieve my satisfactory results --
But in the last few months the results have gotten better as I adjusted the settings. Top Tip!
Write down the settings that apply to different materials and thicknesses!
You will never reach the same cutting quality as the laser cut part
But it\'s good enough for most purposes.
You can always polish the edges if you need them to be smooth.
In order to achieve the best cutting quality, the height of the torch above the paper needs to be carefully controlled.
If the paper is flat, it is OK to set the Z height using the micro switch.
However, if the paper is not completely flat (
Especially for thicker paper)
Something more advanced can help youI bought (
Actually, my wife bought it for me at Christmas. thanks Sarah! )
Electronic torch height control manufactured by PromaHowever-
I need to add something before you rush out to buy one.
For more information on how to attach and use, please see the video of the link.
My plasma table is revolutionary to me!
It\'s almost as useful as my 3D printer
I think it\'s actually a 2D metal printer.
I have a mill, lathe, band saw and most of the usual metal processing equipment, but the plasma adds a lot to my ability.
Very fast (
Than a band saw)
Simple and accurate.
The biggest change is that I have been able to add \"aesthetic decoration\" to metal parts \"--
More interesting shapes and relief holes are not worth cutting them manually.
I don\'t know how much I will end up!
On April 2015, I took the plasma table to the British manufacturer Faire in Newcastle and was overwhelmed by positive comments from tourists (
Thank you very much if you are one of them! )
Many of them are members of the manufacturer/hacker space, and they say the first question members ask about the small laser cutting machine they have is \"can it cut metal \"--
The answer is No \".
They are excited about the prospect of being able to say \"no\"but this can!
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