Replacing the transfer case can price upwards of a couple thousand dollars. Sadly, most of you (like me) probably don't have that type of cash readily available to invest on a transfer case swap. That leaves us the choice of modifying the existing transfer case by removing the tailcone output section and shortening it by about 3'. Performing this may permit you to install a driveshaft which is about 3' longer which, in itself, will alleviate driveline angles, but much better however, it'll permit you to switch to a CV type drivehsaft which far better at handling sharp angles than its slip-yoke counterpart.
Installing a Rubicon Express slip yoke eliminator takes about two hours and demands the following tools.
Standard mechanics wrenches/sockets
Circular saw/grinder with a metal cutting blade (a Sawzall will not function)
Tap deal with - for the 3/8' tap.
Don't use a wrench to turn the tap.
A wrench doesn't permit you to put equal force on both sides of the tap like a manage does and as a result you are able to easily break it off inside the shaft.
1/8' and 5/16' drill bit
3/8' and 5/16' Allen wrenches
RTV silicone sealer
The benefits of making use of this certain kit are easy: it is inexpensive ($199 USD), easy to install (accomplished whilst the transfer case is in the automobile), improves your lifted vehicle's rear driveline angle, and makes it possible for a lowered transfer case to be put back into its stock location.
Get rid of the rear driveshaft from the vehicle. On the rear axle, this really is done by removing four 1/4' bolts and two steel retaining straps from the differential output yoke. At the transfer case, merely pull the driveshaft out of the slip yoke. Some oil could spill from the transfer case when the shaft is removed but not a good deal.
Remove the tailcone section from the transfer case. The tailcone is held towards the transfer case by three bolts. Eliminate them and tailcone really should pop/slide off the case/shaft. If not, lightly tap it on the sides having a hammer to nudge it free of charge from the case. The only thing holding it in place at this time is silicone sealant.
Seal the output shaft bearing surface to prevent get in touch with with debris. Rubicon Express suggested the use of duct tape, however other items including Reynold's saran wrap will function. Make sure to use a liberal amount so no debris can get into the output bearing if you cut the shaft off.
Measure and mark the shaft so that 1' of splined shaft will remain. Keep in mind the rule, 'Measure twice. Cut as soon as.' It may possibly be wise to mark slightly far more than 1' of shaft because too long is better than too brief. Should you cut the shaft too long, it can be shortened. If you cut the shaft too short, you will need a new 1. You are going to need to have a circular saw with a metal cutting/carbide blade. A sawzall will not function. A four.5' hand grinder is perfect for this due to the fact it's little sufficient to fit within the confined region you'll be operating in. When making use of a grinder, be sure you cut slowly and no more than 30-60 seconds at a time. This may avoid the shaft from getting overheated and warping. Following you've cut through the shaft, if it isn't square at the end, grind it down to create it square.
Center punch the finish of the shaft. This can guarantee the drill bit begins in the center of the shaft when drilling the pilot hole. To make locating the center of the shaft easier, location the CV Output Flange over the cut-off shaft. This reduces the visible surface location from about 1.25' diameter to 0.5' diameter allowing you to find the center of the shaft less complicated. Be sure to hit the centerpunch challenging enough to put a dent within the end of the shaft deep sufficient for a 1/8' drill bit to sit in.
Drill the pilot hole in the end of the shaft. This is done with a 1/8' drill bit. This step is easiest done using the car raised 6' on jack stands as well as the transfer case lowered 2'. With the vehicle getting as high as feasible, you will have the ability to sit under it and gauge the direction of the drill. The pilot hole demands to be drilled into the shaft as straight as feasible so take your time. The pilot hole demands to be 1'-1.25' deep. After that's done, you need to bore out the 1/8' pilot hole with a 5/16' drill bit. To be on the secure side, you may need to use a 3/16' bit prior to going towards the 5/16' bit. This makes it a little less complicated to drill a straight hole. Be sure the final depth of the pilot hole is 1.25'.
Use a 3/8' -24 tap to cut threads into the 5/16' pilot hole. Use cutting oil (or WD40) and maintain the tap threads clean. CAUTION: In case you have never ever employed a tap before, then tapping the pilot hole isn't the time to find out! For best results you must read up on the way to appropriately do this after which practice on an additional piece of steel. The proper strategy to tap a hole is 1 full turn forward (clockwise) and one-half turn back (counter-clockwise), but considering that the shaft is made of hardened steel, tap it in one-half turn forward increments. Much better secure than sorry at this point.
Install the Oil seal in the Bearing/Seal Flange. You'll require a press, vice, or similar tool to do this. The oil seal wants to be pressed straight in or harm will happen. Afters the Oil Seal is pressed into the Bearing/Seal Flange, turn it over and run a bead of RTV Silicone along a circumference just inside the three bolt holes. The bead should be about 3/16'. Permit about 10-20 minutes for the silicone to 'skin' over before installing it. Take this time to lube up the rubber portion of the seal where it's going to make get in touch with with the CV Output Flange. Wiping transfer case oil on it with your finger is going to be adequate. Make certain to put oil all about the black rubber portion of the seal. This is to lessen friction otherwise the seal will melt and tear inside the initial mile of driving.
Install the Bearing/Seal Flange. Eliminate the duct tape, saran wrap, or whatever you utilised to protect the transfer case output bearing (in step 3) from the transfer case output shaft. Clean the surface near the bearing generating certain there is certainly no leftover residue from when the tailcone was removed. Use 3 grade 8 M10 x 25mm bolts to install the Bearing/Seal Flange onto the transfer case. Apply Loctite to the bolts prior to inserting them. Now would be a great time to apply RTV silicone to the remaining splines of the output shaft. This can be to avoid oil from leaking by way of the CV Output Flange as soon as it is installed.
Install the CV Output Flange. Slide the CV Output Flange over the output shaft splines and via the oil seal. Take care not to harm the seal. You could need to use a hammer to lightly tap the CV Output Flange down the shaft. Use a 3/8' bolt and washer to bolt the CV Output Flange towards the output shaft. Use loctite to hold the bolt in place.